The Curly Girl Method: From A to Z.

March 20 2025
29 min reading time

Everything you need to know about the Curly Girl Method so you can get started today ♥ Including Curly Girl Method approved hair products for your curls!

Maybe you have heard of it already: the Curly Girl Method. This method is extremely popular in the curly hair world, and more and more people swear by it to care for their natural curls optimally.

This method was developed by Lorraine Massey, who herself struggled with her curls for years and created a care routine that fights frizz and gives curls definition and hydration. Thanks to her method, many people have learned to embrace their natural curls again.

Do you have curls and want to understand and care for them better? Then the Curly Girl Method is a great starting point. In this blog, we already share handy tips and tricks to get you started with this method. If you want to dive deeper, you can read Curly Girl: The Handbook by Lorraine Massey for all the ins and outs.

What are the baSisprinciples of the Curly Girl Method?

The baSis of the Curly Girl Method are actually very Simply: you use hair products with natural ingredients and avoid harmful substances and techniques that can dry out or damage your curls. Below, we explain the main principles.

Avoid sulfates in shampoo
Shampoos with sulfates strip your hair of natural oils and dry out your curls. This is an absolute no-go within the method. Instead, choose a sulfate-free shampoo or wash your hair with a co-wash (conditioner wash).
Heat is damaging to curls
Hair dryers, curling irons and straighteners can severely dry out and damage your hair. If you do want to use a hair dryer, use a low heat setting and always a diffuser. Treat your hair beforehand with a heat protectant to limit damage.
Avoid harmful ingredients
Watch what you put in your hair. Ingredients to avoid:

Silicones on oil baSis (seal your hair and cause product buildup)
Sulfates (dry out your hair)
Parabens (can irritate your scalp)
Non-natural oils and alcohols (can dry out your hair)
Chemical fragrance (can cause irritation)

Don't wash your curls too often
How often you wash your hair depends on your curl type and lifestyle, but daily or every other day washing is discouraged. Start with a few days between wash days and discover what works best for your hair.
Dyeing curls? Be careful
Hair dye often contains harmful ingredients that can damage your curls. If you want to dye your hair, choose a as natural as possible product and use a final wash shampoo to remove built-up Silicones and other residues.
Brushes and combs are unnecessary
Brushing can damage your curls and cause frizz and breakage. Instead, use your fingers to gently detangle. This prevents damage and keeps your curls healthy.
Hydration is essential
Curls are naturally dry, so it's crucial to hydrate them properly. How much moisture your hair needs depends on your hair type and balance. You can do a poroSisity test to determine which products work best for your curls.

With these baSisprinciples, you lay a strong baSis for healthy, resilient curls according to the Curly Girl Method!

What should I avoid when caring for my curls according to the Curly Girl Method?

To keep it clear, we compiled a list of ingredients and tools you better avoid if you want to keep your curls healthy:

Shampoo with sulfates
Hair dryer without diffuser
Comb and brush
Heat from styling tools (like straighteners and curling irons)
Sulfates
Drying alcohols
Silicones on oil baSis (cause build-up)
Mineral oils and waxes
Synthetic fragrance

Why only avoid Silicones on oil baSis? These form a layer on your hair that you can only wash out with sulfates, which dries your curls. Silicones on water baSis on the other hand rinse out easily without aggressive shampoo. These are sometimes used by people who still blow dry or style but in the safest possible Manier.

What should I use to care properly for my curls?

Now that you know what to avoid, here is a list of ingredients that are good for your curls:

Mild cleansing Singredients
Soothing ingredients like shea butter, olive oil and plant oils
Proteins like wheat protein, wheat germ extract or soy proteins
Humectants like panthenol, plant glycerine and sorbitol (attract and retain moisture)
Moisturisers like amino acids and aloe vera
Water-soluble styling gel ingredients like PVP and PVP/VA

Note: Humectants attract water and also hold it. Glycerin prevents hair breakage for those who still want to brush their curls. However, it isn't suitable for every curl. For example, glycerin depends on humidity. This can cause your curls to become over-moisturised and low humidity can cause frizz. So it's really important to understand your curls and know what they need :)

Which natural oils are suitable for the Curly Girl Method?

Not all oils are bad for your curls—on the contrary, some oils provide protection and strengthen your hair. Oils rich in linoleic acid, oleic acid and palmitic acid form a protective layer around your hair and help prevent hair breakage.

Some oils also act as natural heat protection. For example, avocado oil has an SPF of 4 to 10, protecting your hair against UV radiation and heat.

How do I start with the Curly Girl Method?

Before you start with the Curly Girl Method, it is important to get to know your hair well. Follow this step-by-step plan:

Determine your curl type and test the poroSisity and elasticity of your hair.
Your curl type doesn’t tell everything, but it gives a good baSis. Even more important is the poroSisity of your hair. This determines how much moisture your hair can absorb and retain. Elasticity indicates whether your hair needs more protein or hydration.
Do you have low or high porous curls?

Low porous hair: Absorbs moisture slowly and dries slowly. This hair type can quickly feel weighed down by heavy products.
High porous hair: Absorbs moisture quickly but also loses it quickly. This hair type needs rich, nourishing products.

Adjust your hair care to your hair type.
Now that you know how your hair works, you can develop a routine with products that match your curl type.

Should I stop using shampoo in the Curly Girl Method?

No, you don’t have to stop using shampoo immediately. You can gradually reduce shampoo use. When switching to the Curly Girl Method, it’s important to do a final wash with a sulfate shampoo free of Silicones, mineral oils, and waxes. This is called the Final Wash.

This wash removes buildup from old hair products and prepares your hair for the CG routine. After that, you switch to co-washing or a mild, sulfate-free shampoo (low-poo).

Some people with fine or wavy hair find that completely stopping shampoo doesn’t work well. In that case, a low-poo shampoo is a good alternative. The longer you follow the method, the better your hair and scalp balance become.

Which techniques improve my curling routine?

Besides the right products, techniques play an important role in the Curly Girl Method. Here are a few key methods:

Massage and "praying hands" instead of rubbing

Rubbing with a towel causes frizz and damage. Instead, gently massage your scalp and distribute products with the praying hands technique (smooth the product over your curls with your flat hands).

Scrunching for definition

Squeeze your curls upwards while they are wet to strengthen the natural shape and encourage clumping.

Plopping to dry your curls better

Wrap your wet curls in a microfiber towel or cotton T-shirt to maintain shape while drying.

There are many more methods, but this is a good baSis to get started.

Are all types of alcohol bad in the Curly Girl Method?

No, not all alcohol types are harmful. Some alcohols, like fatty alcohols, are actually beneficial because they hydrate and soften your hair.

Avoid these drying alcohols:

Alcohol denat
SD Alcohol (e.g., SD Alcohol 40)
Ethanol
Isopropyl
Propanol
Witch hazel (hamamelis)

Good alcohols that you don’t need to avoid:

Behenyl alcohol
Benzyl alcohol
Cetyl alcohol
CeTearyl alcohol
Myristyl alcohol
Lauryl alcohol
Propylene glycol
STearyl alcohol
Isocetyl alcohol
IsosTearyl alcohol
C30-50 alcohol
Lanolin alcohol

Note: Prolonged use of alcohol can still affect your curls. Lorraine Massey therefore recommends always paying close attention to how your hair reacts and making adSitions where needed.

Step 1. How often do I wash my curls according to the Curly Girl Method?

How often you wash your curls depends on your hair type. However, for all curl types it is important to rinse your hair with cold water to close the hair cuticles. This boosts shine and helps reduce frizz.

Wavy hair (type 2): Wash your hair about once a week with a mild, sulfate-free shampoo. Always start with a conditioner before shampooing. This protects your hair from drying out. Finish with a conditioner to nourish your hair extra.
Curls (type 3): Wash your hair every 7 to 10 days with a CG-proof shampoo. Between wash days, you can co-wash, cleansing your hair with only water and conditioner.
Coily hair (type 4): This hair type needs as little shampoo as possible. Limit washing to the minimum and focus on co-washing. Between these wash days, you can moisten your hair and proceed directly to step 2: conditioning.

Note: listen to your hair

Everyone reacts differently. Some people notice their curls respond better when washing every three days, while others hardly ever wash their hair. The Curly Girl Method is a good starting point, but experiment and find what works best for your hair!

Step 2. How do I condition my curls with the Curly Girl Method?

Using conditioner is an essential part of the Curly Girl Method, but how you apply it depends on your curl type. Some hair types benefit from leaving conditioner in, while others should rinse it out to prevent curls from loosening.

Waves (wavy hair): With wavy hair, you can leave a little conditioner in for extra hydration. However, if your waves are very fine, too much conditioner can weigh your hair down, causing curls to loosen. In that case, it is better to rinse the conditioner out completely.
Curls (type 3): Depending on your hair’s needs, you can rinse or partially leave the conditioner in. With porous curls, it is important not to rinse out the conditioner fully so your hair retains enough moisture. With less porous hair, it’s better to rinse out the conditioner to prevent curls from becoming heavy and losing their bounce.
Coily hair (type 4): This hair type needs deep hydration. For an intenSisive moisture boost, leave the conditioner in for 15 minutes with heat. Wrap your hair in aluminium foil and cover with a towel to retain warmth. Then rinse all conditioner out well to avoid a ‘film’ remaining on your curls.

When applying conditioner, it helps to use a comb or your fingers to distribute evenly and gently detangle. This ensures all your curls are well hydrated.

Step 3. How do I dry and style my curls with the Curly Girl Method?

Before drying your curls, apply leave-in conditioner onto soaking wet hair without squeezing it out first. The leave-in helps lock moisture into your curls. Then apply a styling product, like gel or mousse, and continue with the drying process.

Drying curls according to the Curly Girl Method:

Dry your curls preferably with a microfiber towel, muslin cloth, or if you don’t have those, a cotton T-shirt. This removes excess moisture without damaging your curls. Do this by bending over and gently scrunching the curls (scrunching). Whether you do this with or without hair products depends on your curl type.

The least damaging Manier to dry your curls is air drying. If you choose this, don’t touch your hair while it dries—let it be so the curls keep their natural shape.

Styling by curl type:

Waves (wavy hair): Want more curl definition? Scrunch your hair while drying or pin your curls with a clip or barrette.
Curls (type 3): When your hair is completely dry, bend forward and knead your curls to create extra volume.
Coily hair (type 4): Lorraine Massey recommends the ‘wash & go’ method. Style your hair in a Manier that works for you, but avoid heat and use CG-proof products. What your hair needs depends on the porosity and elasticity of your curls.

Experiment and find what works:

Everyone needs a different routine. Maybe it works better for you to only use leave-in conditioner, then plop your hair with a T-shirt and only apply styling products afterwards. Try different methods and discover what suits your curls best!

Step 4. How do I sleep without damaging my curls so they keep their shape?

The Manier you sleep on is an important part of the Curly Girl Method. By protecting your curls well while sleeping, you prevent damage and spend less time re-styling in the morning. Your curls stay better in shape, so on no-wash days you need to do less.

Common methods include:

Sleeping on a satin pillowcase. This reduces friction and prevents frizzy hair.
A satin sleeping cap: This fully protects your hair and prevents friction.
A loose ‘pineapple’: This is a high, loose ponytail on top of your head, secured with a satin or cotton scrunchie. This prevents you from lying flat on your curls and losing their shape.

The better you keep your curls intact during sleep, the less work you have on refresh days.

Step 5. How do I refresh my curls on non-wash days?

The Curly Girl Method is not only about the right products but also about how you care for your curls on days you don’t wash them. These are the so-called refresh days, where you refresh your curls without a full wash. There are many Maniers to do this, but here we share the most common and effective techniques.

You can refresh your curls in two Maniers: dry or wet.

Dry refreshing: If your curls still look good but need extra definition, use a leave-in conditioner or curl cream. Apply the product with the praying hands technique (rub it between your hands and smooth over your curls) then scrunch your curls to bring them back to life.
Wet refreshing: If your curls lose their shape or feel dry, use water to refresh them. Lightly dampen your hair then apply your styling product. Some people do this in one step by scrunching product directly into wet hair—see what works best for you.

Let your curls air dry after refreshing or use a diffuser for extra volume. Experiment with different methods to discover what suits your hair best!

Why do I actually use gel/mousse/curl Cream for my curls?

If you ask this question, you get answered 9 out of 10 times that it defines your curls, and that’s true. But you don't just use it for that. You use a gel or Cream also to lock moisture into your curls; it creates a kind of 'cast' around your curl. This Manier lets your curls dry well, moisture stays in your curl and your curl keeps its shape. When your curls are finally dry, you can apply the SOTC method, also known as Scrunch Out The Crunch. You knead out the hard layer of the gel from your curls, leaving you with beautiful, soft curls!

A mousse is mainly used by men and women with waves, also called "slag". This is a light product that doesn’t weigh your hair down. Mousse is often used after "plopping". However, some with curl type 3A/3C use a mousse as the very last product in their regime.

Why should I use a treatment for my curls?

Treatments, hair masks, Deep Conditioners— there are plenty of options, but when do you use what?

In short, treatments are used about once a month on average. See if your curls are limp or extremely dry. Rice water or an Olaplex nm.3 is ideal if your curls are limp; this treatment helps revive overly soft curls.

A Deep Conditioner is used to restore moisture to your curls.

Don’t use treatments too often; if you find your way with the right products, the protein/moisture balance is ideal. You’d rarely need a treatment then. A treatment is kind of a last rescue to fix a huge imbalance.

Which Final Wash Shampoo is best to start with the Curly Girl Method?

Wella Invigo Clean Scalp Anti-Dandruff Shampoo

Which protein-free shampoos are Curly Girl Method Proof?

keracare Curlessence Shampoo contains glycerin and caprylyl glycol
Kis Green Curl Shampoo contains glycerin
Kis Green Volume Shampoo contains glycerin and guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride

Which protein shampoos are Curly Girl Method Proof?

DeSign Essentials Almond & Avocado Sulfate-free Shampoo contains hydrolyzed wheat protein
keracare Hydrating Detangling Shampoo contains hydrolyzed wheat protein
keracare 1st Lather Shampoo contains hydrolyzed wheat protein
Maria Nila Therapy Revive Shampoo contains hydrolyzed vegetable protein and glycerine
CHI Tea Tree Oil Shampoo contains hydrolyzed Silk
CHI Infra Shampoo contains hydrolyzed keratin, hydrolized Silk and hexylene glycol

Which protein-free co-wash is Curly Method friendly?

keracare Curlessence Moisturizing Co-Wash contains glycerin, cetrimonium chloride and caprylyl glycol

Which protein silver shampoo is Curly Girl Method friendly?

BioSilk Color Therapy Cool Blond Shampoo contains hydrolyzed Silk

Which protein-free dry shampoo is Curly Girl Method friendly?

L'Oreal TecniArt Morning After Dust Dry Shampoo

Which protein dry shampoos are Curly Girl Method friendly?

Maria Nila CleanSing Powder

Which protein-free conditioners are Curly Girl Method Proof?

Maria Nila Eco Therapy Revive Conditioner contains hydrolyzed vegetable protein and glycerine
keracare Curlessence Moisturizing Conditioner contains glycerin and caprylyl glycol
Kis Green Curl Conditioner contains glycerin, polyquaternium-39 and caprylyl glycol

Which protein conditioner is CG friendly?

DeSign Essentials Natural Almond & Avocado Moisturizing & Detangler Conditioner - contains hydrolyzed wheat protein
BioSilk Silk Therapy with Coconut Oil - contains glycerin and Silk

Which Co-Wash is Curly Girl Method Proof?

keracare Curlessence Moisturizing Co-Wash contains glycerin, Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil

Which leave-ins without protein are Curly Girl Method friendly?

keracare Natural Textures Leave-in Conditioner contains glycerin
Affinage Miracle Mist Leave-in Treatment 12 Miraculous Effects - contains cyclopentaSiloxane
keracare Curlessence Leave-In Conditioner contains caprylyl glycol and polyquaternium-37

Which leave-in with protein is Curly Girl Method friendly?

KIS Kerashield Leave-in contains hydrolyzed wheat protein, keratin amino acids and propylparaben

Which gel without protein is Curly Girl Method proof?

DeSign Essentials Almond & Avocado Honey Curl Forming Custard contains Silk amino acids

Which gel with protein is Curly Girl Method proof?

DeSign Essentials Almond & Avocado Defining Creme Gel contains hydrolyzed wheat protein, Silk amino acids and wheat amino acids
DeSign Essentials Natural Almond & Avocado Honey Curl Forming Custard contains glycerine and protein hydrolyzed Silk

Which styling products without protein are Curly Girl Method proof?

Maria Nila Ocean Spray
DeSign Essentials Coconut & Monoi Coconut Water Curl Refresher contains glycerin and panthenol
Mediceuticals Define Thickening Lotion
keracare Curlessence Healthy Edges contains glycerin and caprylyl glycol
Fudge Curl Revolution Mist contains glycerin and cetrimonium chloride

Which protein curl cream is Curly Girl Method Proof?

DeSign Essentials Almond & Avocado Twist & Setting Lotion contains hydrolyzed wheat potein
keracare Curlessence Curl Activator contains glycerin and keratin, caprylyl glycol and hydrolyzed keratin

Which protein-free curl cream is Curly Girl Method Proof?

Maria Nila Curlicue Creme
DeSign Essentials Honey & Shea Edge Tamer contains glycerin
DeSign Essentials Coconut & Monoi Curl Defining Gel contains glycerin and hydroxypropyltrimonium honey
TIGI Curls Rock Amplifier contains cyclomethicone
Mediceuticals DimenSion Styling Krullencreme

Which protein mousse is Curly Girl Method Friendly?

DeSign Essentials Almond & Avocado Curl Enhancing Mousse contains protein hydrolyzed wheat protein

Which protein-free mousse is Curly Girl Method friendly?

TIGI Foxy Curls Extreme Curl Mousse contains PEG-12 Dimethicone which is water based (opinions vary)

Which protein hair mask/treatment is Curly Girl Method friendly?

DeSign Essentials Almond & Avocado Daily Moisturizing Lotion contains hydrolyzed wheat protein
Maria Nila Eco Therapy Revive Masque contains hydrolyzed vegetable protein and glycerine

Which protein-free hair mask/treatment is Curly Girl Method friendly?

Olaplex Hair Perfector no.3 - contains Polyquaternium-37 which can cause build-up for fine and thin curls. Also contains humectant propylene glycol and glycerin.
keracare Style Essential Oils 120ml
keracare Style Essential Oils 240ml

Which oil without protein is CG friendly?

Bao-Med Pure Skin Scalp & Hair Oil
CHI Tea Tree Oil Soothing Scalp Spray contains hydrolized Silk, propylene glycol and hexylene glycol

Which Beach Salt Spray is Curly Girl Method friendly?

Fudge Prep Salt Spray contains humactant sorbitol. Ideal for wavies(type 2)!

Which hydrating water without protein is Curly Girl Method friendly?

keracare Curlessence Coco Water contains glycerin and caprylyl glycol

Which pure oils have a sealing effect on my curls?

Nanoil Castor Oil is cold pressed, organic and unrefined
Nanoil Jojoba Oil is cold pressed, organic and unrefined
Nanoil Sweet Almond Oil is cold pressed, organic and unrefined

Which pure oils provide both hydration and a sealing effect on my curls?

Nanoil Avocado Oil is cold pressed, organic and unrefined
Nanoil Argan Oil is cold pressed, organic and unrefined

Which accessories are Curly Girl Method proof?

For more Curly Girl Method Proof products check our page for this!

Where can I find more information to make the best choice for my curls?

Where can I ask my question about the Curly Girl Method?

After reading the above blog and the other blogs we refer to, do you still have a burning question? Ask us Team and we’ll help you further in your CG lifestyle! Send your question to info@haarspullen.nl or call us Team during office hours!

Disclaimer: we use CG friendly and proof interchangeably; this can be confusing. CG friendly means there are ingredients that work very well for some but not for others. The Curly Girl Method is an adventure you begin with your curls, which makes it fun! What works well for one person might not work for another (even with the same hair characteristics)... It remains a journey and a matter of trying lots!