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Oily hair – it’s so annoying. It always comes back faster than you want and looks unkempt. After our previous blog 'say goodbye to oily hair with these 10 tips!' we wanted to dive deeper into the subject. Why do we get oily hair and can you really get rid of it? We researched the causes of oily hair and came up with the liberating step-by-step plan with 16 steps on how to get oily hair under control. Want to skip the research and go straight to the answer? Then quickly scroll to the question: 'How can I get oily hair under control?' Have fun reading!
Normal hair turns into 'oily hair' when it contains more sebum than desired. You get oily hair when the scalp secretes too much sebum. On one hand, sebum is very useful because it acts as a protective layer that shields your hair from bacteria, irritants, or pathogens. Unfortunately, too much sebum can take forms you would rather avoid. Your hair looks greasy, lifeless, limp, sticky, and unpleasant.
Sebaceous glands are located around hair follicles. So you can find most sebaceous glands on the (normally hairy) scalp. A sebaceous gland functions to secrete waste products. This secretion happens through a duct of the sebaceous gland that opens into the skin pore of the scalp. If you look very closely, you can even see this skin pore with the naked eye. Among younger people, they have a round shape, while in older people they are oval. Since sebaceous glands are only found in areas with hair, they often use the hair follicles as the duct for the secretion product. This secretion product is sebum.
Let's dive into the science for a moment, the real reason why your hair gets oily. In the sebaceous glands, you can find gland cells. Gland cells store large amounts of fat in the cytoplasm. There comes a time when the gland cell dies, that's how cell division works. When the cell dies, it bursts open. What remains is a greasy substance: sebum. Sebum is a mixture of fatty acids, fatty alcohols, and cell debris. This sebum is secreted through the duct and ends up on the scalp.
Sebaceous glands do have a ‘good’ function. Sebaceous glands actually create a kind of protective layer on your scalp. It keeps your hair supple, shiny, resilient, and water-resistant. In other words: less porous. Together with sweat, they form a kind of mantle or barrier. Sebaceous glands and sweat together create an acidity level. This acidity prevents pathogens, bacteria, and irritants from penetrating your skin. Moreover, this barrier prevents drying out and moisture loss of the scalp. Your scalp stays nice and supple thanks to the sebaceous glands. Excessive sebum production causes hair to be too oily, and too little sebum production can cause a dry scalp.
The sebaceous gland process happens to all of us. But why does it happen much more to some than to others? How much sebum you secrete is usually genetically determined, but overall depends on these factors:
As you can see, there are many factors you can hardly change. Besides thanking your parents for inheriting oily hair, you can’t change much about your hormonal balance, gender, age, symptoms of illness, etc. Speaking of age, maybe a small silver lining: on average, sebum production decreases after your 25-30s.
We explain how these factors cause your hair to become oily. Because if we know the causes, we can also find out what we can do about it! :)
Genetic factors
It may be that excessive sebum production is genetically determined. So if one of your parents has oily hair, there is a good chance you have inherited this as well.
Hormonal balance
Your hormonal balance can fluctuate or become disturbed during puberty, pregnancy, menopause, due to medication, or stress. If you have a deficiency of the female sex hormone estrogen (which inhibits sebum production), you may get oily hair more quickly. Moreover, the male sex hormone testosterone stimulates sebum production.
Gender
Sebum production increases in everyone during puberty and then remains fairly stable until about your 30s. After that, sebum production decreases (finally!). Per decade, sebum production decreases faster in women than in men, especially after menopause.
Age
During puberty, sebum production and secretion increase. This sebum production remains stable until about your 30s. After that, it gradually decreases. After menopause, it decreases even faster.
Nutrition
To give you an example about nutrition: chocolate and beer worsen sebum production because they contain high glycemic sugars. You do have influence over this. The advantage is that nutrition can affect the scalp both from the inside and the outside. You can take in nutrients that stimulate your hair follicles from within, but you can also use shampoos or conditioners. An important vitamin that plays an active role here is vitamin B. If you don’t get enough vitamin B, the sebum level can become unbalanced. It regulates the production and regulation of sebum.
Irritated scalp
An irritated scalp causes oily hair because you often scratch and keep touching your scalp. These factors cause your scalp to produce excessive sebum. The scalp does this to protect itself from stress and to relieve the irritation.
Touching
Massaging the scalp is an absolute no-go. This stimulates the sebaceous glands to produce even more. If you touch your hair a lot, you remove sebum causing your hair to produce even more sebum. So try to avoid touching your scalp as much as possible. Examples include: brushing your hair, running your fingers through your hair, frequently changing styles (bun in, bun out), or friction with the pillow while sleeping.
Fever and medication
We are of course not medical specialists, but medications can increase sebum production. Check with your own doctor if this is the case for the medications prescribed to you.
Temperature changes
In high humidity or warm weather, your body will produce more sebum. Because: the warmer you are, the more you sweat. Too hot shower streams on the scalp are also not beneficial: heat stimulates sebum production. So be careful with a hot hairdryer as well.
Hair structure and hair type
Everyone has different hair: some have thin hair, others curly, frizzy, woolly, straight, you name it. The structure of your hair actually determines how easily sebum can spread over your hair. The straighter your hair, the faster it will get oily. By the way, people with short hair are less likely to have oily hair because it grows further from the scalp than long hair. This is because long hair is heavier and therefore rests more against the scalp.
Using the wrong products
First of all, using too many hair products is not really recommended. They can build up in your hair. Moreover, you might want to avoid products with all kinds of oils, moisturizing shampoos, or conditioners aimed at hydrating your hair for now.
Now that we know the causes of oily hair, we also know if and what we can do about it! Read on quickly:
As you may have noticed by now, you have little influence in preventing greasy hair. And to be honest: there is no magical remedy or trick that will make your hair never greasy again. Still, there is hope: what we can do is explain how to get greasy hair under control and care for it best. You can train your scalp a little. And who knows: maybe it works really well for you and you’ll be forever free from greasy hair worries!
Now it’s finally time for the step-by-step plan. We’ll take you through daily things, from showering to your diet. Read on quickly to find out how you can get greasy hair under control again in 16 steps!
As we honestly admitted above: unfortunately, you can’t get rid of greasy hair with one click. From the explanation above, you’ve probably realized there aren’t many, but there are some things you can do. Well… it’s not fun, but everyone gets greasy hair and we all have to deal with it. How to get it under control, we’re going to explain. From now on, you start your new hair routine with fresh courage! You got this!
If you’ve been looking for a solution for greasy hair for a while, you’ve probably read this tip: don’t wash your hair for a long period, like a detox, to eventually extend the time between washes. We do not recommend this tip. While you’re not washing your hair, styling residues, dirt from outside, and dry shampoo residues all build up. This can accumulate significantly in your hair. Not washing your hair can lead to a very irritated or dry scalp that may start to itch over time. Dirt, oil, and residues usually don’t come out well with just water; you need shampoo for that. In short: such a detox where you don’t wash your hair for weeks is a no-go; it only makes things worse. On the other hand… if you wash your hair too often, sebum production is also stimulated. Massaging, shower streams, and warm temperature stimulate the scalp to produce sebum. So washing your hair too often brings you back to square one.
At this point, nothing seems to be right. But nothing could be further from the truth. It’s all about one thing: balance. The key word when it comes to your hair and scalp. Don’t wash your hair just because it’s ‘wash day’. Feel when your hair really needs a wash. Is it visibly greasy/dirty or do you get an irritated scalp? Time for a wash! The goal is to extend the time between washes. Fortunately, this is possible because you can train your scalp a little. Moreover, tips 3 through 16 all contribute to this. So keep reading!
One of the best things about your new hair routine: picking out new products! Because the right shampoo and conditioner are a must. Check it out:
Which shampoo can I use for oily hair?
Note to self: a shampoo without sulfates and silicones is a must! Sulfates are (often aggressive) cleansers that strip your hair of oils, dirt, styling residues—basically everything. At first, this sounds perfect, but no: your scalp also gets stripped of good oils and gets the signal that there’s no protective layer left, resulting in even more sebum production.
A shampoo without sulfates or silicones is often called a mild shampoo. A mild shampoo has a great balance between cleansing and preserving the good oils. This cleans your scalp, keeps the good oils in place, and doesn’t signal your scalp to produce more sebum. Perfect! Check out these shampoos:
Which conditioner can I use for oily hair?
We understand that you might feel like you shouldn’t use conditioner, but you actually need it! Oily hair starts at the hair root, and if you wash it often without conditioner, your ends become dry. While shampoo opens your hair cuticles to clean your hair properly, conditioner closes them again. Conditioner is super important because closed cuticles are what you want! This makes your hair less vulnerable and keeps it strong. We recommend using a lightweight conditioner that doesn’t weigh your hair down. If you use a conditioner that weighs your hair down, your hair will hang closer to your scalp, which leads to… well, we probably don’t need to tell you. Lastly, conditioners often contain silicones. For some, a must-have; for others, a no-go. Silicones coat your hair, making it smooth and shiny. But we in the oily hair club want our hair and scalp to keep breathing. So silicones are a no-go! We’ve listed some lightweight conditioners for you:
What other products can I use to care for my hair?
It’s better to avoid oils or serums directly on the scalp. But products that keep your hair healthy and balanced are wonderful! Giving your hair an extra treat now and then is definitely not a bad idea. Maybe one of these products appeals to you:
Once you have your new shampoo and conditioner at home, it’s important to use them correctly. Massaging a big lump of shampoo into your hair because it feels like it makes your hair really clean doesn’t actually make much sense. There are more things to pay attention to; we’ve explained it step by step:
How do I use shampoo for oily hair?
How do I use a conditioner for oily hair?
… absolute no-go! The granules are often too harsh, causing damage to your skin. The skin then tries to repair this by producing even more sebum. So it’s a myth that this solves oily hair!
Why your hair gets oily from warm temperatures we already explained in the causes. In summary: heat increases sebum production. This is also why your hair gets oily faster in summer. You don’t have to shower with ice-cold water, but lower the temperature a bit to reduce sebum production, super effective!
Brrr… you probably don’t want to think about it. But it has so many advantages! First, it closes the pores of your scalp, protecting it from dirt, oil, and grease. It also protects the natural oils and sebum that protect your scalp. It improves the blood circulation of your scalp, keeping it in optimal condition (think back to that “balance”). Finally, it’s great for your hair: your hair cuticles close, giving you smooth and shiny hair. Wonderful, right?
Undoubtedly the best invention ever: dry shampoo. With this, you can postpone your next wash by a few days. Dry shampoo usually consists of talcum powder and starch that absorb the oil from your hair. Additionally, your hair often gains volume from it, win-win!
We do advise against using dry shampoo for days in a row. This can build up significantly, resulting in an irritated scalp, and it also dries out your hair a lot. Despite this, we of course love dry shampoo. We recommend the following dry shampoos to you:
… and brush your hair less often. Brushing is detrimental to oily hair, and in two ways:
Do you still want to brush your hair? Then don’t start at the roots, but from the mid-lengths. Regularly change your brush and clean it well so no grease remains. It would be a shame if you just washed your hair and then brush with a greasy brush…
The more styling products, the more build-ups, the faster you have to wash your hair again. That’s exactly what we want to avoid. Try to avoid styling products on the scalp. Of course, you can safely apply hairspray on the mid-lengths and ends.
As we said earlier, you want to avoid build-ups. Also, it’s better to avoid styling products that weigh your hair down, because your hair will lie flat against the scalp and get greasy faster. If you have long locks, mousse or wax is basically a no-go, as it can weigh your hair down. So try to use a light product, such as this one:
Unfortunately… no more scratching. Touch your scalp as little as possible. Also, don’t brush your hair more than twice a day. Massaging stimulates blood circulation. And faster blood flow stimulates sebum production. In other words: don’t massage your scalp. This will cause your hair to get greasy faster. This applies to both a relaxing massage and in the shower.
To make sure you touch your hair as little as possible, it’s best to wear your hair up. This way, the temptation to fix your hair is minimized. For example, wear a nice cap, straw hat, half bun, cute ponytail, or a braid. This is also very trendy! You can also wear a nice cap, hat, or scarf to hide greasy hair. Touching your hair less makes a big difference!
Healthy hair starts from within! We have listed all the nutrients that are great for the scalp:
Hair vitamins can also contribute well to the health of your scalp and hair. You can find our hair vitamins here.
Just like your hairbrush, your pillowcase is just as important to change regularly. Change your pillowcase regularly to prevent old sebum from getting back into your hair. It would be a shame if your freshly washed hair gets oily again because of this!
Try to make such a new hair routine your own with the matching tips, this way you can maintain it longer. The steps and tips you received in this blog are also suitable for keeping your scalp and hair healthy and happy, so even if you don't have oily hair, it is definitely recommended. Your hair needs to get used to hair care products without sulfates and silicones, which can make it seem like your hair gets oily faster at first. Pay extra attention to rinsing out the shampoo and conditioner. Keep going, patience is a virtue!
We hope we have brought you one step closer to grease-free hair! If you have any questions about this blog or oily hair, feel free to email info@haarspullen.nl ♡
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