With this step-by-step plan, you will get greasy hair under control!
- 16 min reading time
Oily hair – it’s so annoying. It comes back faster than you want and looks unkempt. After our last blog 'say goodbye to oily hair with these 10 tips!' we wanted to dive deeper into the matter. Why do we get oily hair and can you really get rid of it? We researched the causes of oily hair and came up with a freeing 16-step plan to get oily hair under control. Want to skip the research and go straight to the answer? Then quickly scroll to the question: 'How can I get oily hair under control?' Have fun reading!
What is oily hair?
Normal hair turns into ‘oily hair’ when it contains more sebum than desired. You get oily hair when the scalp produces too much sebum. On the one hand, sebum is very useful because it acts as a protective layer that shields your hair from bacteria, irritants, or pathogens. Unfortunately, too much sebum can take forms you’d rather not have. Your hair looks greasy, lifeless, limp, sticky, and unpleasant.
How does oily hair develop?
Sebaceous glands are located around hair follicles. Most sebaceous glands are found on the (normally haired) scalp. A sebaceous gland functions to secrete waste products. This secretion passes through a duct from the sebaceous gland that opens into the skin pores of the scalp. If you look closely, you can see these pores with the naked eye. For younger people, they are round; for older people, oval. Since sebaceous glands are only located where hair grows, they often use hair follicles as ducts for the secretion. This secretion is sebum.
Let’s dive into the science — the real reason your hair gets oily. In sebaceous glands, there are gland cells. These cells store large amounts of fat in their cytoplasm. At some point, the gland cell dies, as happens with cell division. When the cell dies, it bursts open. This leaves a greasy substance behind: sebum. Sebum is a mixture of fatty acids, fatty alcohols and cell remnants. This sebum is secreted through the duct and ends up on the scalp.
Why do we actually have sebaceous glands?
Sebaceous glands do have a ‘good’ function. They form a protective layer on your scalp. They keep your hair flexible, shiny, resilient and water-resistant. In short: less porous. Together with sweat, they form a Man shield or barrier. Sebaceous glands and sweat maintain an acidity level. This acidity stops pathogens, bacteria and irritants from entering your skin. Moreover, this barrier prevents dryness and moisture loss of the scalp. Your scalp stays supple thanks to the sebaceous glands. Excess sebum production causes oily hair, while too little causes dry skin.
Why does one person have oilier hair than another?
The sebaceous gland process happens to us all. But why does it happen more to some than others? How much sebum you produce is mostly hereditary but depends on these factors:
- Hereditary factors
- Hormonal balance
- Gender
- Age
- Nutrition
- Irritated scalp
- Touch
- Fever and medication
- Temperature changes
- High humidity
- Hair structure and style
- Use of wrong products
As you can see, many factors are hard to change. Besides blaming your parents for oily hair genetics, you can’t do much about your hormones, gender, age or illnesses. Speaking of age, there’s a little silver lining: sebum production usually decreases after your late twenties.
How do certain factors cause oily hair?
We explain how these factors make your hair oily. Understanding the causes helps us find solutions! :)
Hereditary factors
Excess sebum production can be genetic. So if a parent has oily hair, there’s a good chance you’ve inherited it.
Hormonal balance
Your hormones can fluctuate or get disrupted during puberty, pregnancy, menopause, medication use or stress. A lack of the female hormone oestrogen (which slows sebum production) can cause oily hair faster. Additionally, the male hormone testosterone boosts sebum production.
Gender
Sebum production rises during puberty for everyone and then stays fairly stable until about your thirties. After that, sebum production decreases (finally!). It decreases faster for women than for men, especially after menopause.
Age
Sebum production increases and secretion rise during puberty. It stays stable until around your thirties, then gradually declines. After menopause, it declines faster.
Nutrition
For example, chocolate and beer worsen sebum production due to their high glycaemic sugars. This is something you can influence. Nutrition affects your scalp from the inside and outside. You can take in nutrients that stimulate your hair follicles internally and also use shampoos or conditioners externally. A key vitamin is vitamin B. If you don’t get enough vitamin B, sebum levels can get disrupted because it regulates sebum production and control.
Irritated scalp
An irritated scalp causes oily hair because scratching and touching it stimulate excessive sebum production. The scalp produces sebum to protect itself from stress and soothe irritation.
Touch
Massaging the scalp is a big no-no. It stimulates sebaceous glands to produce more sebum. Touching your hair a lot removes sebum on hair strands, causing the scalp to produce even more. Avoid touching your scalp as much as possible. Examples are brushing, running fingers through hair, frequently changing hairstyles (bun in, bun out), or friction from sleeping on pillows.
Fever and medication
We’re not medical experts, but some medications can boost sebum production. Check with your GP if this applies to your prescribed medicines.
Temperature changes
High humidity or warm weather causes your body to produce more sebum. When it’s warmer, you sweat more. Hot showers also increase sebum production. Be cautious with hot hair dryers.
Hair structure and style
Everyone’s hair is different: thin, curly, frizzy, woolly, straight, you name it. Your hair’s texture determines how easily sebum spreads. The straighter your hair, the faster it gets greasy. People with short hair get oily hair less quickly because hair is further from the scalp than long hair. Long hair weighs down and touches the scalp more.
Use of wrong products
First, using too many styling products is not ideal. They can build up in your hair. Also avoid oily products, moisturising shampoos and conditioners aiming to hydrate, as these can weigh hair down.
Now we know the causes of oily hair, let’s see what we can do about it! Read on:
How can I get oily hair under control?
By now you’ve probably realised that preventing oily hair is limited. And honestly: there’s no magic wand that instantly stops oily hair. But there’s hope: we can explain how to control oily hair and care for it best. You can train your scalp a little. And who knows, maybe it works great for you and you’ll be free from greasy worries forever!
Now it’s finally time for the step-by-step plan. We guide you through your daily routine from showering to nutrition. Read how to get oily hair under control in sixteen steps!
Step 1 – The start of your new hair routine
As we honestly admitted before: you can’t get rid of oily hair with one click. From the above explanation, you probably realise there are a few things you can do. Well… it’s not fun, but everyone gets oily hair and we all have to deal with it. We’ll explain how to control it. Starting now, you begin your new hair routine with fresh spirit! You got this!
Step 2 – Wash your hair less often
If you’ve been searching for a solution for a while, you’ve likely seen this tip: don’t wash hair for a long time, as a kind of Detox, to increase intervals between washes. We don’t recommend this. During the no-wash period, styling residues, dirt and dry shampoo build up. This can cause irritation or dryness that itches later on. Dirt, oil and residues usually don’t wash out well with water alone – shampoo is needed. In short: skipping washes for weeks is a no-go and makes things worse. On the other hand, washing too often stimulates sebum production. Massaging, shower sprays and warm water stimulate the scalp to produce sebum. So washing too much gets you back where you started.
It seems nothing works here. But the truth is all about balance, the key word for hair and scalp. Don’t wash just because it’s ‘wash day’. Feel when your hair really needs washing. Is it visibly greasy or is your scalp irritated? Time for a wash! The goal is to stretch intervals between washes. Luckily possible – you can train your scalp. Steps three to sixteen help too. Read on!
Step 3 – Use the right hair care products
One of the best things about your new hair routine: picking new products! The right shampoo and conditioner are a must. Check this out:
Which shampoo can I use for oily hair?
Note to self: a shampoo without sulphates and Silicones is essential! Sulphates are (often aggressive) cleaners that strip oils, dirt and styling residues from hair, basically everything. At first, this sounds great but no: they also strip good oils and send a signal that there’s no protective layer, which increases sebum production.
A sulphate- and Silicone-free shampoo is often called a mild shampoo. Mild shampoos perfectly balance cleansing and retaining good oils. This cleanses your scalp, keeps good oils in place and stops it from producing more sebum. Perfect! Check out these shampoos:
- Maria Nila Head & Hair Heal Shampoo – all Maria Nila products are suitable!
- Curly Girl Method: DeSign Essentials Natural Almond & Avocado Shampoo
Which conditioner can I use for oily hair?
We understand you may think you shouldn't use conditioner, but you actually need it! Oily hair starts at the roots, and washing often without conditioner causes dry ends. Shampoo opens hair cuticles to cleanse properly; conditioner closes them again. Conditioner is crucial because closed cuticles make hair stronger and less vulnerable. We recommend a light conditioner that doesn’t weigh hair down. Heavy conditioners make hair hang closer to the scalp, leading to… well, you get it. Conditioners often contain Silicones. Some love them, others don’t. Silicones coat hair for a smooth, shiny finish, but oily hair fans want hair and scalp to breathe. So Silicones are a no-go! Here are some lightweight conditioners:
- Maria Nila Head & Hair Heal Conditioner – all Maria Nila products are suitable!
- Curly Girl Method: DeSign Essentials Almond & Avocado Detangling Conditioner
What other products can I use to care for my hair?
Oils or serums on the scalp are best avoided but products that keep your hair healthy and balanced are wonderful! Treating your hair occasionally is never a bad idea. Maybe one of these suits you:
- Maria Nila True Soft Argan Oil
- REF Wonder Oil
- Maria Nila Head & Hair Heal Mask
- L'Oréal Source Essentielle Nourishing Oil
Step 4 – Use hair care products on the right Man
Once you have your new shampoo and conditioner, it’s important to use them correctly. Massaging loads of shampoo into your hair because it feels clean doesn’t help much. There are other tips you should know, which we explain step by step:
How do I use shampoo for oily hair?
- First for safety: you’ve got a mild shampoo, free of sulphates and Silicones!
- Use a small amount first. Apply mainly to the roots; leave lengths for now. This targets cleaning sebum.
- Don’t massage too hard! This stimulates hair follicles to produce more sebum.
- No need to leave it in long; rinse well.
- Once excess oil is removed, proceed with a ‘normal’ wash. Apply normal amount to lengths and ends. Getting some on the scalp is fine but avoid overstimulation. Leave in briefly, then rinse well.
- Rinsing thoroughly is very important to avoid build-ups!
How do I use conditioner for oily hair?
- Again, double-check: you’ve got a light conditioner without Silicones!
- Never use conditioner on the scalp
- Apply to mid-lengths and ends
- Avoid roots, behind ears and neckline!
- Leave in briefly and rinse thoroughly.
- Good rinsing is super important here too.
Step 5 – Scrubbing your hair is a …
…absolute no-go! Scrub particles are often too rough and damage the skin. The skin reacts by producing even more sebum. It’s a myth that scrubbing fixes oily hair!
Step 6 – Shower with lower temperature
We already explained why warm water increases oily hair: heat boosts sebum production. Also why oily hair increases in summer. You don’t have to shower ice-cold, but a lower temperature helps reduce sebum production. Super effective!
Step 7 – Rinse your hair with cold water after washing
Brrr… probably not something you want to think about, but it’s got so many benefits! Firstly, it closes scalp pores, protecting scalp from dirt, grease and oil. It also protects natural oils and sebum that shield your scalp. It improves scalp blood circulation, keeping it in optimal condition (think balance). Finally, it’s great for your hair: it closes the hair cuticles making hair smooth and shiny. Wonderful, right?
Step 8 – Dry shampoo is your best friend
Undoubtedly the best invention ever: dry shampoo. It lets you delay your next wash by a few days. Dry shampoo usually contains talc and starch that absorb grease from hair. It often adds volume, win-win!
We advise against using dry shampoo for many days in a row. It builds up, causing an irritated scalp and extremely dry hair. Despite this, we love dry shampoo. We recommend these:
Step 9 – Change your brush often
…and brush your hair less often. Brushing is counterproductive for oily hair in two ways:
- The brush massages the scalp stimulating sebum production
- You spread sebum and oils over your hair, making it look even greasier
If you must brush, start at mid-lengths, not roots. Clean your brush regularly to avoid grease build-up. It’d be a shame to brush freshly washed hair with a greasy brush…
Step 10 – Use fewer styling products
The more styling products, the more build-up, the sooner you need to wash. We want to avoid that. Try to keep styling products off the scalp. You can use hairspray on mid-lengths and ends though.
Step 11 – Use the right styling products
As mentioned, avoid build-ups. Also avoid heavy styling products that weigh hair down, causing it to stick close to the scalp and get greasy faster. For long hair, mousse or wax are no-go’s as they weigh hair down. Use light products, like these:
- Maria Nila VolumeSpray
- Maria Nila Ocean Spray
- DeSign Essentials Curl Enhancing Mousse (CG-proof)
- REF Ocean Mist
Step 12 – No more scalp scratching
Unfortunately, no more scratching. Touch your scalp as little as possible. Brush hair no more than twice a day. Massaging stimulates blood flow, which boosts sebum production. So don’t massage your scalp. This speeds up oily hair. This applies to massages and shower massages alike.
Step 13 – Wear your hair up
To avoid touching your hair, best to wear it up. This reduces the temptation to fix it constantly. Try a cute cap, straw hat, half bun, ponytail or braid. It’s trendy too! A hat, cap or scarf can also hide oily hair. Touching your hair less makes a big difference!
Step 14 – Watch your nutrition
Healthy hair starts from within! We’ve listed nutrients great for scalp health:
- Water – First of all, drink plenty. It supports general health and removes toxins from your body. It also improves scalp vitality and hair root health.
- Vitamin A – Supports cell and tissue growth. Found in spinach, carrots, sweet potatoes, Mandates, Mango, melon, and apricots.
- Vitamin B2 – Helps prevent hair loss. Found in mushrooms, eggs, broccoli, and spinach.
- Vitamin B3 – Supports blood circulation in the scalp and strengthens follicles. Found in bread, grains, beef, and salmon.
- Vitamin B5 – Prevents hair loss and delays greying. Found in chicken, milk, wholegrain bread, grains, and salmon.
- Vitamin C – Keeps blood vessels in the scalp healthy. Found in spinach, nuts, seeds, and avocados.
- Vitamin E – Keeps hair elastic and shiny. Found in spinach, nuts, seeds, and avocados.
- Zinc/Iron – Important for hair growth. Found in grains, nuts, milk, potatoes, brown rice, vegetables, and fruit.
Hair vitamins can also promote scalp and hair health. You can find our hair vitamins here.
Step 15 – Change your pillowcase regularly
Like your hairbrush, your pillowcase should be changed regularly. Changing it prevents old sebum getting back into your hair. It’d be a shame if freshly washed hair becomes oily again!
Step 16 – Patience
Try to really make this new hair routine and tips your own, so you can keep it up. The steps and tips in this blog also keep your scalp and hair healthy and happy, so even if you don’t have oily hair, it’s worth it. Your hair needs time to adjust to sulphate- and Silicone-free hair care products. At first, it may seem your hair gets greasy faster. Pay extra attention to rinsing shampoo and conditioner well. Keep going; patience is a virtue!
We hope we’ve brought you one step closer to oil-free hair! If you have any questions about this blog or oily hair, feel free to email info@haarspullen.nl ♡
