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The Curly Girl Method: From A to Z.

  • 29 min reading time
Blog curly girl

Everything you need to know about the Curly Girl Method so you can get started today ♥ Including Curly Girl Method approved hair products for your curls!

Maybe you've heard of it: the Curly Girl Method. In the curl world, this method is extremely popular, and more and more people swear by it to optimally care for their natural curls.

This method was developed by Lorraine Massey, who herself struggled with her curls for years and created a care routine that fights frizz and gives curls definition and hydration. Thanks to her method, many people have relearned to embrace their natural curls.

Do you have curls and want to better understand and care for them? Then the Curly Girl Method is a good start. In this blog, we share useful tips and tricks to help you get started with this method. If you want to go deeper, you can read Curly Girl: The Handbook by Lorraine Massey for all the ins and outs.



What are the basic principles of the Curly Girl Method?

The basis of the Curly Girl Method is actually very simple: you use hair products with natural ingredients and avoid harmful substances and techniques that can dry out or damage your curls. Below we explain the main principles.

  • Avoid sulfates in shampoo
    Shampoos with sulfates strip your hair of natural oils and dry out your curls. This is an absolute no-go within the method. Instead, choose a sulfate-free shampoo or wash your hair with a co-wash (conditioner-wash).

  • Heat is harmful to curls
    Blow dryers, curling irons, and straighteners can severely dry out and damage your hair. If you still want to blow-dry, use a low heat setting and always a diffuser. Pre-treat your hair with a heat protectant to minimize damage.

  • Avoid harmful ingredients
    Watch what you put in your hair. Ingredients to avoid:

    • Oil-based silicones (seal your hair and cause product buildup)
    • Sulfates (dry out your hair)
    • Parabens (can irritate your scalp)
    • Non-natural oils and alcohols (can dry out your hair)
    • Chemical fragrance (can cause irritation)
  • Don't wash your curls too often
    How often you wash your hair depends on your curl type and lifestyle, but daily or every other day washing is discouraged. Start with a few days between washes and discover what works best for your hair.

  • Dyeing curls? Be careful
    Hair dye often contains harmful ingredients that can damage your curls. If you still want to dye your hair, choose a as natural as possible product and use a final wash shampoo to remove built-up silicones and other residues.

  • Brushes and combs are unnecessary
    Brushing can damage your curls and cause frizz and breakage. Instead, you can use your fingers use to gently detangle. This prevents damage and keeps your curls healthy.

  • Hydration is essential
    Curls are naturally dry, which is why it is crucial to hydrate them well. How much moisture your hair needs depends on your hair type and balance. You can use a porosity test to determine which products work best for your curls.

With these basic principles, you lay a strong foundation for healthy, resilient curls according to the Curly Girl Method!

 

 

What should I avoid when caring for my curls according to the Curly Girl Method?

To keep it clear, we have compiled a list of ingredients and tools you better avoid if you want to keep your curls healthy:

  • Shampoo with sulfates
  • Blow dryer without diffuser
  • Comb and brush
  • Heat from styling tools (such as straighteners and curling irons)
  • Sulfates
  • Drying alcohols
  • Oil-based silicones (cause build-up)
  • Mineral oils and waxes
  • Synthetic fragrance

Why avoid only oil-based silicones? These create a layer on your hair that you can only wash out with sulfates, which dries out your curls. Water-based silicones, on the other hand, rinse out easily without harsh shampoo. These are sometimes used by people who still blow-dry or style but in the safest way possible.

 

 

What should I use to properly care for my curls?

Now that you know what to avoid, here is a list of ingredients that are actually good for your curls:

  • Mild cleansing ingredients
  • Soothing ingredients such as shea butter, olive oil, and vegetable oils
  • Proteins such as wheat protein, wheat germ extract, or soy proteins
  • Humectants such as panthenol, vegetable glycerin, and sorbitol (attract and retain moisture)
  • Moisturizers such as amino acids and aloe vera
  • Water-soluble styling gel ingredients such as PVP and PVP/VA

Note: humectants are water-attracting ingredients that also retain water. Glycerin prevents hair breakage for those who still want to brush their curls. However, it is not suitable for every curl. Among others, glycerin depends on humidity. This can cause your curls to become over-moisturized, and low humidity can cause frizz. So it is really important to understand your curls and know what they need :)

 

 

Which natural oils are suitable for the Curly Girl Method?

Not all oils are bad for your curls—on the contrary, some oils provide protection and strengthen your hair. Oils rich in linoleic acid, oleic acid, and palmitic acid form a protective layer around your hair and help prevent breakage.

In addition, some oils act as a natural heat protectant. For example, avocado oil has a SPF from 4 to 10, which protects your hair against UV radiation and heat.

 

 

How do I start with the Curly Girl Method?

Before you start with the Curly Girl Method, it is important to get to know your hair well. Follow this step-by-step plan:

  1. Determine your curl type and test the porosity and elasticity of your hair.
    Your curl type doesn't determine everything, but it does provide a good foundation. What is even more important is the porosity of your hair. This determines how much moisture your hair can absorb and retain. Elasticity indicates whether your hair needs more protein or hydration.

  2. Do you have low or high porous curls?

    • Low porous hair: Absorbs moisture slowly and dries slowly. This hair type can quickly become weighed down by heavy products.
    • High porous hair: Absorbs moisture quickly but also loses it quickly. This hair type needs rich, nourishing products.
  3. Tailor your hair care to your hair type.
    Now that you know how your hair is structured, you can develop a routine with products that suit your curl type.

 

Do I have to stop shampoo in the Curly Girl Method?

No, you don’t have to stop shampoo immediately. You can gradually reduce shampoo use. When switching to the Curly Girl Method, it is important to do a final wash with a sulfate shampoo without silicones, mineral oils, and waxes. This is called the Final Wash.

This wash removes build-up from old hair products and prepares your hair for the CG routine. After that, you switch to co-washing or a mild, sulfate-free shampoo (low-poo).

Some people with fine or wavy hair find that completely stopping shampoo doesn’t work well. In that case, a low-poo shampoo is a good alternative. The longer you follow the method, the better your hair and scalp will balance.

 

 

Which techniques improve my curl routine?

Besides the right products, techniques play an important role in the Curly Girl Method. Here are a few key methods:

  • Massaging and "praying hands" instead of rubbing

    • Rubbing with a towel causes frizz and damage. Instead, gently massage your scalp and distribute products using the praying hands technique (smooth the product over your curls with your flat hands).
  • Scrunching for definition
    • Squeeze your curls upwards while they are wet to enhance the natural shape and encourage clumping.
  • Plopping to help your curls dry better
    • Wrap your wet curls in a microfiber towel or cotton T-shirt to maintain their shape while they dry.

There are many more methods, but this is a good foundation to start with.

 

 

Are all types of alcohol bad in the Curly Girl Method?

No, not all types of alcohol are harmful. Some alcohols, such as fatty alcohols, are actually beneficial because they hydrate and soften your hair.

Avoid these drying alcohols:

  • Alcohol denat
  • SD Alcohol (e.g. SD Alcohol 40)
  • Ethanol
  • Isopropyl
  • Propanol
  • Witch hazel (hamamelis)

Good alcohols you don’t need to avoid:

  • Behenyl alcohol
  • Benzyl alcohol
  • Cetyl alcohol
  • Cetearyl alcohol
  • Myristyl alcohol
  • Lauryl alcohol
  • Propylene glycol
  • Stearyl alcohol
  • Isocetyl alcohol
  • Isostearyl alcohol
  • C30-50 alcohol
  • Lanolin alcohol

Note: Prolonged use of alcohol can still affect your curls. Lorraine Massey therefore recommends always paying close attention to how your hair reacts and making adjustments where necessary.

 

 

Step 1. How often do I wash my curls according to the Curly Girl Method?

How often you wash your curls depends on your hair type. However, for all curl types, it applies that you rinse out with cold water to close the hair cuticles. This promotes shine and helps to reduce frizz.

  • Wavy hair (type 2): Wash your hair about once a week with a mild, sulfate-free shampoo. Always start with a conditioner before shampooing. This protects your hair from drying out. Finish with a conditioner to nourish your hair extra.
  • Curls (type 3): Wash your hair every 7 to 10 days with a CG-proof shampoo. Between wash days, you can co-wash, cleansing your hair with only water and conditioner.
  • Coily hair (type 4): This hair type needs as little shampoo as possible. Limit washing to a minimum and focus on co-washing. Between washes, you can dampen your hair and go straight to step 2: conditioning.

Note: listen to your hair

Everyone reacts differently. Some people notice their curls respond better when washing every 3 days, while others rarely wash their hair. The Curly Girl Method is a good starting point, but experiment and discover what works best for your hair!

 

 

Step 2. How do I condition my curls with the Curly Girl Method?

Using conditioner is an essential part of the Curly Girl Method, but how you apply it depends on your curl type. Some hair types benefit from leaving conditioner in, while others do better rinsing it out to prevent curls from falling flat.

  • Waves (wavy hair): For wavy hair, you can leave a little conditioner in for extra hydration. However, if you have very fine waves, too much conditioner can weigh your hair down, causing your curls to fall flat. In that case, it’s better to rinse out the conditioner completely.
  • Curls (type 3): Depending on your hair’s needs, you can rinse out the conditioner or leave some in. For porous curls, it’s important not to rinse out the conditioner completely so your hair retains enough moisture. If your hair is less porous, it’s better to rinse out the conditioner to prevent your curls from becoming heavy and losing their bounce.
  • Coily hair (type 4): This hair type needs deep hydration. For an intensive moisture boost, you can let your hair absorb it for 15 minutes with heat. Wrap your hair in aluminum foil and cover it with a towel to retain the heat. Then rinse out all the conditioner thoroughly to prevent a ‘film’ from remaining on your curls.

When applying conditioner, it’s helpful to use a comb or your fingers to distribute it evenly and detangle any knots. This ensures all your curls are well hydrated.

 

 

Step 3. How do I dry and style my curls with the Curly Girl Method?

Before drying your curls, apply a leave-in conditioner to soaking wet hair without squeezing it out first. The leave-in helps to retain moisture in your curls. Then apply a styling product, such as gel or mousse, and continue with the drying process.

Drying curls according to the Curly Girl Method:

The best way to dry your curls is preferably with a microfiber towel, hydrophilic cloth, or if you don’t have that, a cotton T-shirt. This removes excess moisture without damaging your curls. You do this by hanging upside down and gently scrunching the curls. Whether you do this with or without hair products depends on your curl type.

The least damaging way to dry your curls is air drying. If you choose this, don’t touch your hair while it dries, let it be so the curls keep their natural shape.

 

Styling per curl type:

  • Waves (wavy hair): Want more curl definition? Scrunch your hair while drying or secure your curls with a pin or clip.
  • Curls (type 3): When your hair is completely dry, bend forward and scrunch your curls to create extra volume.
  • Coily hair (type 4): Lorraine Massey recommends using the ‘wash & go’ method. Style your hair in a way that works for you, but avoid heat and use CG-proof products. What your hair needs depends on the porosity and elasticity of your curls.

Experiment and discover what works:

Everyone needs a different routine. Maybe it works better for you to only use a leave-in conditioner, then plop your hair with a T-shirt, and only after that apply a styling product. Try different methods and discover what suits your curls best!



Step 4. How do I sleep without damaging my curls so they stay nicely shaped?

The way you sleep is an important part of the Curly Girl Method. By protecting your curls well while sleeping, you prevent damage and ensure you spend less time re-styling in the morning. Your curls stay better in shape, so on days you don’t wash, you have less to do.

Commonly used methods are:

  • Sleeping on a satin pillowcase. This reduces friction and prevents frizzy hair. 
  • A satin sleep cap: This fully protects your hair and prevents friction.
  • A loose ‘pineapple’: This is a high, loose ponytail on top of your head, secured with a satin or cotton scrunchie. This prevents you from lying flat on your curls and losing their shape.

The better you keep your curls intact while sleeping, the less work you have on refresh days.

 

 

Step 5. How do I refresh my curls on non-wash days?

The Curly Girl Method is not only about the right products but also about how you care for your curls on days you don’t wash them. These are the so-called refresh days, where you refresh your curls without a full wash. There are countless ways to do this, but here we share the most common and effective techniques.

You can refresh your curls in two ways: dry or wet.

  • Dry refreshing: If your curls are still in good shape but need some extra definition, use a leave-in conditioner or curl cream. Apply the product with the praying hands technique (rub it between your hands and smooth over your curls) and then scrunch your curls to make them resilient again.
  • Wet refreshing: If your curls lose their shape or feel dry, then use water to freshen them up. Make your hair slightly damp and then apply your styling product. Some people do this in one step by scrunching their product directly into wet hair—see what works best for you.

Let your curls after refreshing air dry or use a diffuser for extra volume. Experiment with different techniques to discover what works best for your hair!

 

Why do I actually use a gel/mousse/curl cream for my curls?

If you ask this question, you get the answer 9 out of 10 times that it defines your curls, and that is true. But you don't use it only for that. You also use a gel or cream to lock moisture in your curls; it creates a kind of 'cast' around your curl. This way, your curls can dry well, moisture stays in your curl, and your curl keeps its shape. Once your curls are finally dry, you can apply the SOTC method, also known as Scrunch Out The Crunch. You knead the hard layer of the gel out of your curls, leaving you with a beautiful curl! 

A mousse is mainly used for ladies and gentlemen with waves, also called "slag." This is a light product that does not weigh your hair down. Mousse is often used after "plopping." However, there are also ladies with curl types 3A/3C who use a mousse as the very last product in their routine. 

 

Why would I use a treatment for my curls?

Treatments, hair masks, Deep Conditioner—enough options, but when do you use what? 

In short, you use treatments on average once a month. Check if your curls are limp or extremely dry. Rice water or an Olaplex nm.3 is ideal if you have limp curls; this treatment helps to revive your overly soft curls. 

You use a Deep Conditioner to restore the moisture of your curls. 

Don't use treatments too much; once you find your way with the right products, the protein/moisture balance is ideal. You would then rarely need to use a treatment. A treatment is a kind of last rescue to restore the huge imbalance.

 

Which Final Wash Shampoo is best to start with the Curly Girl Method? 

 

 

Which shampoos without protein are Curly Girl Method Proof?

 

Which shampoos with protein are Curly Girl Method Proof?

 

Which co-wash without protein is Curly Method friendly?

 

Which silver shampoo with protein is Curly Girl Method friendly?

 

 

Which dry shampoo without protein is Curly Girl Method friendly? 

 

 

Which dry shampoos with protein are Curly Girl Method friendly? 

 

 

Which conditioner without protein is Curly Girl Method Proof?

 

Which conditioner with protein is CG friendly?

 

Which Co-Wash is Curly Girl Method Proof?

 

Which Leave-ins without protein are Curly Girl Method friendly?

 

Which Leave-in with protein is Curly Girl Method friendly?

 

Which gel without protein is Curly Girl Method proof?

 

Which gel with protein is Curly Girl Method proof?

 

Which styling products without protein are Curly Girl Method proof? 

 

Which curl cream with protein is Curly Girl Method Proof?

 

Which curl cream without protein is Curly Girl Method Proof?

 

Which mousse with protein is Curly Girl Method Friendly?

 

Which mousse without protein is Curly Girl Method friendly?

 

Which hair mask/treatment with protein is Curly Girl Method friendly?

 

Which hair mask/treatment without protein is Curly Girl Method friendly?

 

 

Which oil without protein is CG friendly? 

 

Which Beach Salt Spray is Curly Girl Method friendly?

 

Which moisturizing water without protein is Curly Girl Method friendly?

 

Which pure oils have a sealing effect on my curls?

 

 

Which pure oils have both a moisturizing effect and a sealing effect on my curls?

 

 

Which accessories are Curly Girl Method proof? 

 

For more Curly Girl Method Proof products check our page here!



Where can I find more information so I can make the best choice for my curls? 

 

 

Where can I ask my question about the Curly Girl Method?

After reading the above blog and the other blogs we refer to, do you still have a burning question? Ask your question to our team and we will help you further in your CG lifestyle! Send your question to info@haarspullen.nl or call our team during office hours!

Disclaimer: we use CG friendly and proof interchangeably, this can be a bit confusing. CG friendly means that there are ingredients that work very well for one person and not so well for another. The Curly Girl Method is an adventure you embark on with your curls, which makes it so much fun! What works well for one person doesn’t necessarily work for another (with the same hair characteristics)… It remains a journey and a matter of a lot of experimenting! 

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